Monday, June 22, 2009

 

Review: Kyocera FK-075 Ceramic Paring Knife

Although most people think steel when considering a knife, there's another material that can do an amazing job: ceramics. And the Kyocera FK-075 ceramic paring knife is as sharp as they come -- or, at least as sharp as I've found. (We reviewed the Kyocera ceramic Y vegetable peeler back in 2007.) The edge is so keen that it's scary. We've had to tell people to be mindful, because at first glance you could swear it was a toy. I do wish that it came with a blade guard, as a number of paring knives that I've reviewed over the years have had. The knife cleans up easily. According to the Kyocera site, the company can sharpen the blades when they eventually dull, though that seems to be taking a very long time. The downside is that you can't sharpen it yourself and so you'll have to factor in the shipping time back and forth when it comes to that. You get your choice of several handle colors. The price is $29.95, so steep compared to some other blades that do an admirable job. If you're on a budget, check the Zyliss paring knife, which we reviewed last year and cost about $8 at list price.

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Friday, November 21, 2008

 

Product Review: American Masala Mortar & Pestle Set


In the latest incoming round of test products, inevitable kicking up around this time of the year, came a mortar & pestle from the American Masala collection from Suvir Saran, chef/owner of Indian restaurant Devi in Manhattan, and manufactured by Wade Ceramics in England. The name is an allusion to complex spice mixtures and is certainly another way of looking at this country's melting pot. The result is a marvelous hand tool, too often neglected in modern kitchens, that looks good and works better.

There's a pleasure in seeing spices come together with some texture and not turned into powder by an electric grinder. It's like the difference between pureeing food and using a food mill. Grinding becomes an easier task when the mortar is a broad bowl offering a wide expanse of rough ceramic area on which to grind. The pestle bottom is similarly broad, which made quick work of a combination of anise, cardamom, and cloves that then went into a pot of hot water on the wood stove. (Great way to add scent to the air.) I was sent the larger 5-cup version in a pale green named for cardamom. The pestle handle is wrapped in a decorative pattern. It has a great feel in the hands and works the spices quickly, all without any electrical power, making it green in a different sense, as well.

The surfaces washed up pretty easily, though, like any mortar and pestle, some of the spice smell will linger. But then, the same thing will happen in an electric grinder, which will be much harder to clean given the usually small grinding space.

At $50, this isn't a cheap tool, and for some reason both the 2-cup and 5-cup versions are the same prices, which seems strange to me. As it's only available at the J.K. Adams online store, there's no chance to find a better price online at the present time, and it does make it hard for me to suggest it without reservation. If budget is a problem and the physical look isn't so important, check the Internet, or an Asian food store, if there's one nearby. We've had our stone mortar and pestle for years, and for most people the larger capacity won't be necessary.

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