Tuesday, June 30, 2009
Review: Cuisinart Supreme Ice Cream Maker (ICE-50BC)
Even with the seemingly perpetual presence of grey skies in the Northeast, making me think that our home has been surreptitiously swapped for a small community near Portland, Ore., it's time for ice cream. Well, here in Massachusetts, people queue up even in January, so who am I kidding? It's always time for ice cream. You could go find a local shop selling something other than what you might get in the grocery store, but instead consider an initial hefty investment to start churning it out at home -- or switch off to sorbet or frozen yogurt, if you like. The Cuisinart Supreme Commercial Quality Ice Cream Maker is a compressor-driven model (that's the reasoning behind "commercial," because it's clearly designed for consumers) rather than one of the more common types that use a container that you freeze overnight. With a few caveats about a product claim and operation, this is a good machine for those who are serious about ice cream.
Operation is simple. You set the unit on a counter and plug it in. A small bucket slips into the machine. Pour in the ice cream mix, place the paddle into the bucket, place the drive arm on top, and set the timer. (Soft ice cream/sorbet/yogurt takes 30 to 45 minutes; hard requires 45 minutes to an hour.) The unit will turn off when the timer ends or will also shut itself down if it's done freezing the contents. You will have to slip a plastic cover for the pail into place on the mixing arm. It's easy to set it slightly off, but if you do, the arm raises up and stops working. Once you see how it fits into place, it will become clear.
Chief among benefits is the ability to make a treat any time you want. There is still preparation, as you must put together the stuff to be churned and then chill it for a good four to six hours. But you can do that in the morning and not depend on having remembered to clear out enough room in a freezer to fit in a bulky container. Or you can make enough of a basic sweetened cream mix to last a few days in the fridge and make something as whim takes you, adding in fruit puree, a bit of melted chocolate, vanilla, or other flavoring to get some variety.
I mentioned caveats. One is that there is a warning not to tip the base on its side or turn it upside down. If you do, you are suppose to put it back upright and then leave it alone for 24 hours before using it again. I'm not sure why you'd turn it upside down, and the sucker is pretty heavy and it would seem to be harder to store sideways. Anyway, give it time to get over the shock of the rude handling, or perhaps the world will meet some unspecified doom.
More annoying is the claim of 1.5 quart volume. That actually is the room you have, but when I did a test run of mango ginger sorbet (recipe here), we got a thick outside shell of sorbet frozen hard with a core of cold slush. I had to take a spoon and get the hardened sorbet out and then finish freezing the slush. When the unit was only partly filled, though, everything came to a good consistency. So if you have a full 1.5 quarts, I'd try freezing it in two batches. But otherwise, it's marvelously convenient and one of those single-use appliances worth getting.
There's one other caveat. A few years ago, a number of consumers were complaining about the plastic paddle being flimsy in an earlier version. It's still plastic, but I haven't gotten the impression that it is overly flimsy. I'm guessing that there's been enough time for Cuisinart to correct any problems. If after a few batches I find otherwise, I'll report back.
Street price seems to run around $250 to $300. Given the cost of high quality ice cream, et. al., figure that buying 1.5 quarts of really good quality ice cream, not the normal store-bought, would run at least $9. (Think three pints of Ben & Jerry's.) You can make it for half of that, so that would be a savings of $4.50 a batch. That would be about 66 batches to recoup the machine cost, or maybe a few summers' worth. No, this isn't a big money saver, but the quality of what you can create will easily exceed most of what you can buy.
Operation is simple. You set the unit on a counter and plug it in. A small bucket slips into the machine. Pour in the ice cream mix, place the paddle into the bucket, place the drive arm on top, and set the timer. (Soft ice cream/sorbet/yogurt takes 30 to 45 minutes; hard requires 45 minutes to an hour.) The unit will turn off when the timer ends or will also shut itself down if it's done freezing the contents. You will have to slip a plastic cover for the pail into place on the mixing arm. It's easy to set it slightly off, but if you do, the arm raises up and stops working. Once you see how it fits into place, it will become clear.
Chief among benefits is the ability to make a treat any time you want. There is still preparation, as you must put together the stuff to be churned and then chill it for a good four to six hours. But you can do that in the morning and not depend on having remembered to clear out enough room in a freezer to fit in a bulky container. Or you can make enough of a basic sweetened cream mix to last a few days in the fridge and make something as whim takes you, adding in fruit puree, a bit of melted chocolate, vanilla, or other flavoring to get some variety.
I mentioned caveats. One is that there is a warning not to tip the base on its side or turn it upside down. If you do, you are suppose to put it back upright and then leave it alone for 24 hours before using it again. I'm not sure why you'd turn it upside down, and the sucker is pretty heavy and it would seem to be harder to store sideways. Anyway, give it time to get over the shock of the rude handling, or perhaps the world will meet some unspecified doom.
More annoying is the claim of 1.5 quart volume. That actually is the room you have, but when I did a test run of mango ginger sorbet (recipe here), we got a thick outside shell of sorbet frozen hard with a core of cold slush. I had to take a spoon and get the hardened sorbet out and then finish freezing the slush. When the unit was only partly filled, though, everything came to a good consistency. So if you have a full 1.5 quarts, I'd try freezing it in two batches. But otherwise, it's marvelously convenient and one of those single-use appliances worth getting.
There's one other caveat. A few years ago, a number of consumers were complaining about the plastic paddle being flimsy in an earlier version. It's still plastic, but I haven't gotten the impression that it is overly flimsy. I'm guessing that there's been enough time for Cuisinart to correct any problems. If after a few batches I find otherwise, I'll report back.
Street price seems to run around $250 to $300. Given the cost of high quality ice cream, et. al., figure that buying 1.5 quarts of really good quality ice cream, not the normal store-bought, would run at least $9. (Think three pints of Ben & Jerry's.) You can make it for half of that, so that would be a savings of $4.50 a batch. That would be about 66 batches to recoup the machine cost, or maybe a few summers' worth. No, this isn't a big money saver, but the quality of what you can create will easily exceed most of what you can buy.
Wednesday, June 24, 2009
Product Review: Traeger Junior (BBQ055) Pellet Grill – Part II, Smoking
As I mentioned last week, the Traeger Junior Pellet Grill uses an electric system to feed and burn pellets (not the same as for home heating systems) to generate the BTUs for cooking. It's clean -- no carting off ash after cooking, and only a semiannual vacuuming to clear out any residue from pellet burning. Although the smallest model, you can easily fit enough food to feed six (not only do they claim that, but we were able to do it). What I didn't like about the unit is that it didn't get hot enough with its indirect heat source to do a good job of actual grilling. However, I thought that the real strength might be in smoking. I was right.
We fired up the grill on the smoke setting and put in a couple of racks of pork ribs that had been sitting with a rub of salt, pepper, allspice, and ground coriander seed for a few hours. The smoke setting got the kettle thermometer just over 100°F, so closer to cold smoking than to hot. In mid process, I contacted Traeger and mentioned the first part of the review and that we were going to smoke the ribs. They suggested starting on high, getting the meat's internal temperature to about 100°, and then shifting to smoke for the best results. A bit too late for us, but no matter.
I've used conventional smokers before. One advantage of the Traeger is that it can go for long stretches largely unattended, as it continues to funnel pellets at a pre-determined rate into the fire box. That certainly beat continuingly going out to check on the fire and fuel supply. (We didn't have the opportunity to test the pellets "flavored" with different types of wood, like apple or hickory, so made do with what we had on hand.) I'd estimate that it takes only a small part of a bag to run the unit for hours, so it is relatively economical in fuel use. (One 20-lb. bag runs only about $15 to $18.)
After a few hours, I noticed that the kettle temperature was still only about 100°, so I shifted the feeder to medium. I remembered that the high setting had resulted in a kettle temperature of about 300 to 400, so thought that medium would get us smack in the hot smoking range, which is what happened. Although I haven't tried it yet, I suspect that the "smoke" setting would be good for fish or for smoking meat where you planned to cook it some other way after. Medium gets you a bit less smoke, but more heat.
Ultimately, I shifted the unit to high. That eventually caused a bit of a hiccough, though late enough that it didn't matter. Although I had filled the pellet bin, the pellets fed into the system from the middle and left a hole, with additional pellets not feeding in, so the fire eventually went out. But, things were done enough after a total of seven hours. The results were fabulous without barbeque sauce. (We still have some two days later.) Because the two rib racks had to overlap a bit to fit in the unit, part way through cooking I had to shift them. Still, it was an easy way to smoke a lot of food. So although I wouldn't recommend the Traeger Junior for grilling, at under $500, it's a convenient, effective, and well-constructed smoker if you have an outlet you can reach with the power cord. The budget constrained will have to go a different route, but if you like smoked food, this could quickly pay for itself over the cost of heading to a barbeque restaurant, assuming there's a good one in your area.
We fired up the grill on the smoke setting and put in a couple of racks of pork ribs that had been sitting with a rub of salt, pepper, allspice, and ground coriander seed for a few hours. The smoke setting got the kettle thermometer just over 100°F, so closer to cold smoking than to hot. In mid process, I contacted Traeger and mentioned the first part of the review and that we were going to smoke the ribs. They suggested starting on high, getting the meat's internal temperature to about 100°, and then shifting to smoke for the best results. A bit too late for us, but no matter.
I've used conventional smokers before. One advantage of the Traeger is that it can go for long stretches largely unattended, as it continues to funnel pellets at a pre-determined rate into the fire box. That certainly beat continuingly going out to check on the fire and fuel supply. (We didn't have the opportunity to test the pellets "flavored" with different types of wood, like apple or hickory, so made do with what we had on hand.) I'd estimate that it takes only a small part of a bag to run the unit for hours, so it is relatively economical in fuel use. (One 20-lb. bag runs only about $15 to $18.)
After a few hours, I noticed that the kettle temperature was still only about 100°, so I shifted the feeder to medium. I remembered that the high setting had resulted in a kettle temperature of about 300 to 400, so thought that medium would get us smack in the hot smoking range, which is what happened. Although I haven't tried it yet, I suspect that the "smoke" setting would be good for fish or for smoking meat where you planned to cook it some other way after. Medium gets you a bit less smoke, but more heat.
Ultimately, I shifted the unit to high. That eventually caused a bit of a hiccough, though late enough that it didn't matter. Although I had filled the pellet bin, the pellets fed into the system from the middle and left a hole, with additional pellets not feeding in, so the fire eventually went out. But, things were done enough after a total of seven hours. The results were fabulous without barbeque sauce. (We still have some two days later.) Because the two rib racks had to overlap a bit to fit in the unit, part way through cooking I had to shift them. Still, it was an easy way to smoke a lot of food. So although I wouldn't recommend the Traeger Junior for grilling, at under $500, it's a convenient, effective, and well-constructed smoker if you have an outlet you can reach with the power cord. The budget constrained will have to go a different route, but if you like smoked food, this could quickly pay for itself over the cost of heading to a barbeque restaurant, assuming there's a good one in your area.
Monday, June 22, 2009
Review: Kyocera FK-075 Ceramic Paring Knife
Although most people think steel when considering a knife, there's another material that can do an amazing job: ceramics. And the Kyocera FK-075 ceramic paring knife is as sharp as they come -- or, at least as sharp as I've found. (We reviewed the Kyocera ceramic Y vegetable peeler back in 2007.) The edge is so keen that it's scary. We've had to tell people to be mindful, because at first glance you could swear it was a toy. I do wish that it came with a blade guard, as a number of paring knives that I've reviewed over the years have had. The knife cleans up easily. According to the Kyocera site, the company can sharpen the blades when they eventually dull, though that seems to be taking a very long time. The downside is that you can't sharpen it yourself and so you'll have to factor in the shipping time back and forth when it comes to that. You get your choice of several handle colors. The price is $29.95, so steep compared to some other blades that do an admirable job. If you're on a budget, check the Zyliss paring knife, which we reviewed last year and cost about $8 at list price.
Saturday, June 20, 2009
Review: ZenSoy Organic Pudding
There was a brief time that we thought someone in the family would have to cut gluten from the diet. If you've never investigated the possibility of some kind of ingredient restriction, it can be a challenging thing. Whether gluten (which appears in so many things as to make your eyes cross), dairy, nuts, or what have you, it becomes a challenge to find things that don't suffer some form of "contamination." Desserts can be particularly challenging, given the often high amounts of flour, sugar, milk, and eggs. Some samples of ZenSoy organic pudding came in -- gluten-free, no milk or egg products, no nuts, and pretty good. The banana, chocolate, and vanilla flavors were decent. The texture felt a tough gummy, but that's really a quibble. The quality is good and if you need to avoid some common allergens, or if you'd just a switch from the usual, they're worth the try.
Labels: dessert, gluten-free, reviews, soy
Thursday, June 18, 2009
Review: Traeger Junior (BBQ055) Pellet Grill – Part I
We actually got this Traeger pellet grill in for testing last fall, but shortly after it came, the cold really ramped up and the snow started. So we're finally getting a chance to test out grilling with pellets. I'm breaking the review into two parts, because although we did some grilling yesterday, the smoking test is still to come.The approach is interesting. Instead of using gas, which to my taste often ends up with too neutral a flavor, or charcoal, which can be messy whether you go with real hardware charcoal or briquettes, the grill uses a pellet design. Small wood pellets, which look for all the world like rabbit food, go into a hopper. (Note that they're a special type developed for cooking food and not the same ones used in furnaces to heat a building and come with different "flavors," so you can get apple or maple or some others.) A slowly-turning electric auger (yes, it has to be plugged in somewhere) feeds pellets at a controlled rate into a firebox. In the firebox is a heated rod that burns the pellets. Depending on the setting, you can go for high heat grilling, medium, or smoking. In the latter setting, the ignition rod keeps turning on and off, letting the pellets smolder and turn into a smoke source.
Even this, the smallest unit, is hefty, with a shipping weight of 76 pounds. Part of that is because of the augur motor and other electrical paraphernalia, but a good chunk is due to heavy construction and thick steel shell. This isn't the type of unit that is going to easily blow away in a wind. Assembling it is a bit fussy, and I found that the instructions were not necessarily all that helpful. But I can see that trying to find a way that will work easily could be a hassle. You have to clamp the heavy burning unit to the grill's body, so you want it low to the ground. But then you have to get the whole thing elevated to attach the legs, which is inconvenient. I had help in assembling, and you might find that useful. Not the most fun solo project.
The design is pretty clever. A large drip tray sits under the grill and conveys fat out to a spout that juts out through one end of the unit. Hanging under the spout is supposed to be a small bucket, which will catch the grease, only the bracket for the handle broke off during shipping when inside the box. So that's now on the list of things to fix. You then follow instructions to fire up the grill for the first time and then season it by letting it run on high for 45 minutes.
All that was fine, and I noticed that by the end, the thermometer read about 400 degrees. We let it cool down and then started it again, using high to grill some salmon that I had coated in a cilantro-parsley pesto. (It was variation on an idea that I had seen on Steve Raichlen's Primal Grill program, which used tuna and a more traditional pesto.) I had covered the drip tray as instructed with aluminum foil, heated the unit, used an oil-dampened wadded paper towel held by tongs to grease the grill bars, and put on the fish. And waited. And waited. Although the instructions say that the grill (which sports a supposed 19,500 BTUs) should heat in ten minutes, I had left it on longer. The grill didn't seem to get hot enough to do a good job. For example, the bars weren't leaving marks on the fish. Overall, the salmon probably took about 15 to 20 minutes of cooking time, and was maybe medium by the end of this. This was, as they suggest and as I'd have done anyway, with the cover closed.
Ultimately, it was tasty, but I was disappointed by the amount of heat. It was in the lower 70s with a bit of a breeze where we are, and the instructions note that cooking in cooler weather can take longer. So it might be that on a somewhat warmer day the grilling action would have been more responsive. Also, given the drip tray and firebox arrangement and the inability to change the height of the grate, the heat is going to be indirect, which is why I'm thinking that I'll be doing at least an additional test with smoking a brisket or turkey, and perhaps a third test with a roast at the medium setting. They sell through dealers with a list of $499, but some web research suggested a street price of $50 to $100 less. I'll hold off on a full opinion until after the smoking, but as a grill alone, I'd pass at that price.
Note - here's part II of the review. It's pretty cool as a smoker.
Tuesday, January 13, 2009
Review: Yotta Bars
Yotta bars are a snack food in the new tradition of hiding-vegetables-so-you-don't-notice-them. Each is a combination of granola with fruit and six to nine different vegetables. There's a bit of irony in the marketing, as they stress that they both "eat like a fruit" and "nothing beats the taste of fresh vegetables."
But enough quibbling. The bars taste good, and are certainly better for you than a candy break. I don't think that all the versions equally mask the presence of the vegetables. For example, the orange tastes just like that, but the cherry has some aftertastes that don't taste like fruit. However, those secondary flavors are pleasant, even if a bit unusual in their juxtaposition. You can get them at Whole Foods stores and various places online. List price seems to be in the $1.60 each range, though they're available for less.
But enough quibbling. The bars taste good, and are certainly better for you than a candy break. I don't think that all the versions equally mask the presence of the vegetables. For example, the orange tastes just like that, but the cherry has some aftertastes that don't taste like fruit. However, those secondary flavors are pleasant, even if a bit unusual in their juxtaposition. You can get them at Whole Foods stores and various places online. List price seems to be in the $1.60 each range, though they're available for less.
Labels: fruit, products, reviews, snacks, vegetables
Sunday, December 21, 2008
Product Review: Knob Creek Bourbon
With the review bottle of Knob Creek Kentucky Bourbon that came in for testing, my wife has declared that I've turned her into a bourbon drinker, with the caveat of her being a "drinker" is a highly relative term. In this case, she's tried adding it to eggnog. I've done the same, but prefer Knob Creek at a cool room temperature and straight up for sipping. I've had bourbon before, but rarely tried one that I'd want without some kind of mixer. Knob Creek is relatively mellow, so you're not choking on the vapors, but still a bit assertive and smoky. Aged nine years, I've probably had older ones, but this certainly holds its own. Although one cute feature is no longer available in time for the holidays, you can order a bottle and add a personalized note right on the label -- good for gifts.
Friday, December 19, 2008
Product Review: TRUFresh Shrimp [UPDATED]
We tested some frozen shrimp dish samples from TRUFresh Shrimp and wee reasonably impressed. Of course, making something well at home is going to be better than packaged food, but these individual serving packages were surprisingly good. There are two varieties: a green salsa verde, and lemon herb.
The salsa verde was pleasantly spicy (though not the thing if you like completely bland food), and was particularly favored by my teenage daughter. I like it and the lemon herb as well. The company emphasizes its quick-freezing process that supposedly avoid turning the shrimp into rubber. I found that they were slightly tough after the five minute heating in boiling water, but nowhere near the throw-it-on-the-car-as-a-tire stage.
The company provides instructions for heating in a microwave, but explicitly says that the recommended method is in boiling water. I stuck with the hot water bath. The products are supposed to be available in stores throughout the Northeast, but I'm not sure where and don't know how much they run. Overall, a good product, especially if you want access to a quick meal whose primary virtue is not how fast you can choke the thing down.
[UPDATE: I heard back from the PR people. Suggested retail price is $2.99 for a one-serving box, and as of 12 Dec. 2008, they are available in the Northeast of the U.S. at grocery chains, including Price Chopper, Hannaford, Kings, and ShopRite.]
The salsa verde was pleasantly spicy (though not the thing if you like completely bland food), and was particularly favored by my teenage daughter. I like it and the lemon herb as well. The company emphasizes its quick-freezing process that supposedly avoid turning the shrimp into rubber. I found that they were slightly tough after the five minute heating in boiling water, but nowhere near the throw-it-on-the-car-as-a-tire stage.
The company provides instructions for heating in a microwave, but explicitly says that the recommended method is in boiling water. I stuck with the hot water bath. The products are supposed to be available in stores throughout the Northeast, but I'm not sure where and don't know how much they run. Overall, a good product, especially if you want access to a quick meal whose primary virtue is not how fast you can choke the thing down.
[UPDATE: I heard back from the PR people. Suggested retail price is $2.99 for a one-serving box, and as of 12 Dec. 2008, they are available in the Northeast of the U.S. at grocery chains, including Price Chopper, Hannaford, Kings, and ShopRite.]
Product Review: George Foreman 360 Grilling Machine
This is the first time I've had a chance to try one of the George Foreman-branded grills. After trying it a bit, I can largely recommend it. On the plus side, it gets real hot, real fast, and cooking food from both sides speeds the time to meal. A good amount of grease does pour off the grill when you use the built-in tipping stand that causes the hot liquid to roll off the grill and into a receptacle. There are replaceable surfaces, so you can switch from a grill to a quesadilla maker to a baking dish. The surfaces clean up quickly, and we had great luck grilling burgers, pork chops, fish, and vegetables. There is also a lot of space, and you should be able to cook a 1.5 pound, or perhaps larger, steak.
Now for the cons. Be careful how you set the grill, otherwise you might have the grease container at the edge of a counter and accidentally knock it over, spilling a big mess, as I did. If you like rare or medium-rare meat, then this can get tricky. The grill will cook far faster than you're used to because both sides are getting heat simultaneously. Because of the speed, you won't get the same degree of grilling char marks on the surfaces, and if you look for those, a steak or burger will have already sailed into well-done territory. It's still worth using if you're in a hurry or if the surface appearance isn't so important.
We did try the baking dish for a deep-dish pizza, as the marketing lit says is possible, but I wouldn't even bother. The lid keeps the dough compressed, which makes for a heavy pie. I've yet to try it for a frittata, and suspect that will work well. It would also be good if there latches to keep the lid closed when moving it from a cupboard to a surface for cooking and back again. However, it's a fast way to make dinner with a lot less grease. Retail price is about $150.
Monday, December 15, 2008
Product Review: Tahoe Creamery Ice Cream
New England is a hotbed for great ice cream, even during the winter, which might make you wonder about the sanity of the populace. My family is cheerfully in the cold treat camp, and it means somethign when each of us is trying to get to an ice cream brand before anyone else. That's what it's been like with Tahoe Creamery ice cream - fabulous texture and marvelous flavors. The vanilla is as good as I've had, and that's saying a lot. I even liked the Coffee Crunchy Toffee and the Mint Chip, though I'm typically not a big fan of coffee or mint ice cream. Thumbs up also on the Flow Cookie Dough. I only wish that some of the blueberry flavor had been included, as I've become a convert to blueberry ice cream made with wild Maine berries, and a comparison would have been fun. If you're in the mood for a treat, head to the Tahoe Creamery web site. At $39 for six pints packed in dry ice (not counting shipping), it's not cheap. But it is really good.
Saturday, November 29, 2008
Product Review: Swedish Designs Cookware Racks
Storing pots and pans can be a pain. We put a large metal rack into our kitchen and use hooks to hang them from the sides, with a few large pots on top, but that isn't the most visually elegant solution. If you want a bit more well-constructed style, look at the racks from Swedish Designs. We got a vertical maple skillet rack as a test unit. The pale wood is well screwed together with a smooth and attractive finish. They claim that you can fit a pan upwards of 13-inches in, and I'd have to agree because I tried our largest.
A strip of wood at the bottom is at a slight incline, presumably to encourage you to stack from small to large. I think it would have been great to have an option that would hold multiple of the largest pans, in case someone is so equipped. There are also racks for vertical stacking, pot racks, and racks that combine some pots and a couple of pans. All are available in either maple or beech. Prices run from $62 for a skillet rack to $108 for the combination racks. Not everyone will find this method of storage to be ideal, but if you have a more limited number of pots and pans (or a smaller collection that is attractive and that you'd like to display), this would be worth considering.
A strip of wood at the bottom is at a slight incline, presumably to encourage you to stack from small to large. I think it would have been great to have an option that would hold multiple of the largest pans, in case someone is so equipped. There are also racks for vertical stacking, pot racks, and racks that combine some pots and a couple of pans. All are available in either maple or beech. Prices run from $62 for a skillet rack to $108 for the combination racks. Not everyone will find this method of storage to be ideal, but if you have a more limited number of pots and pans (or a smaller collection that is attractive and that you'd like to display), this would be worth considering.
Friday, November 28, 2008
Product Review: Zyliss Paring Knife
A Zyliss paring knife came in for testing just before Thanksgiving and it proved itself a pleasure in the kitchen. The hollow-ground stainless steel blade (the marketing copy says that the steel is from Japan, but I'm not convinced that matters) has perhaps the sharpest edge I've seen shipped. The packaging keeps it (and fingers) safe during shipping. The blade has a longer handle than I'm used to seeing on a paring knife, which I found a delightful match for my large hands. My wife, with considerable smaller hands, also liked the feel because it helps add control. A slide-on cover uses a friction fit to stay snug for safe transport and storage in a drawer. The thin blade is also good for peeling and making fine slices. Even at the list price of $7.99, it's inexpensive for a quality tool. There is a serrated version, but not having tried it, I can't speak for its utility.
Wednesday, November 26, 2008
Product Review: Electrolux Rapido
My wife is the real expert in vacuums (though I've been known to do my time behind one). Her view is that the Electrolux Rapido handheld is not just a very good machine, but a superior one. Getting that kind of rave from her is rare, but understandable in this case. Her guess is that the suction is probably a good third stronger than with the Black & Decker model we have. The vacuum stores easily on a base that will also mount on a well. Two attachments, an extension crevice tool and a brush, store within the base, so everything is out of the way. Two little wheels at the vacuum's opening allow it to glide over a surface without scraping. The 2.4 lb. vacuum body opens and closes easily. Plus, the design is attractive looking. List price is about $60 -- a good choice when you want to be able to scoop up dirt without having to pull out a full-sized vacuum.
Product Review: Redi-Measure Light Brown Sugar
Sometimes what is new in food is not the product but packaging. In this case, Imperial Sugar has come out with Redi-Measure Light Brown Sugar. It's light brown sugar, but packaged in quarter-cup packets. There are 12 packets to a box, or three pounds in total, running in the $2.19 to $2.49 per box price, depending on where you buy it.
My wife, a busy baker, and I talked it over and came to some conclusions. If you bake often, then this probably doesn't make sense. Although brown sugar can stiffen, there are little disks you can add to your container that will absorb the moisture and leave the sugar loose. (If you're feeling particularly cheap, a piece of dry toast will do the same.)
However, if you don't do a lot of baking, or perhaps have limited room for canisters, this could be just the trick. It is a bit pricey because of all the extra packaging, but not horrendously so. And if you are going camping or otherwise having to cook during a vacation, bringing a few packets could be a smart way to minimize the potential mess.
My wife, a busy baker, and I talked it over and came to some conclusions. If you bake often, then this probably doesn't make sense. Although brown sugar can stiffen, there are little disks you can add to your container that will absorb the moisture and leave the sugar loose. (If you're feeling particularly cheap, a piece of dry toast will do the same.)
However, if you don't do a lot of baking, or perhaps have limited room for canisters, this could be just the trick. It is a bit pricey because of all the extra packaging, but not horrendously so. And if you are going camping or otherwise having to cook during a vacation, bringing a few packets could be a smart way to minimize the potential mess.
Labels: ingredients, product, reviews
Tuesday, November 25, 2008
Product Review: Grandma's Chicken Soup
No, I haven't snuck into your bubbe's kitchen to pass culinary judgment. Grandma's Chicken Soup.com, as you might imagine, sells chicken soup. And it's really good chicken soup -- not just my opinion, but that of my wife, who makes great chicken soup herself. The broth has a strong chicken flavor without a fatty mouth feel or the usual over dependence on salt of most commercial versions. There are large pieces of carrot and the noodles are good.
Not all is perfect. While we liked the texture of the matzo balls, they are very peppery. My wife didn't care for the burn, though I enjoyed them, so this will be a strict matter of personal taste. The soup comes frozen and you're supposed to use it within three days, but defrosting it is quite the undertaking. At first we left it in the fridge, then transferred it to a counter, and finally ended up chipping away at the ice remaining in the plastic jar so we could get all the contents into a pot to heat. It would be good to have this arrive in some sort of container that would allow you to easily move the contents to a pot so the stove top could move the melting along.
Last big problem is price. The basic order of soup without any of the "extras" (we got a mug of highly respectable small brownies with ours) is $29 for a half gallon, accurately claimed to be enough to feed four to six. That's without shipping, which can run anywhere from $12, for next day in New England, to $51 for next day west of the Mississippi. That is a shame, because it turns what might be welcomed as a regular indulgence to a periodic treat. Perhaps one day Grandma could find a store chain that could offer the product in volume and make it easier to get when a cold first hit and not, between shipping and defrosting, a day or two after it was over.
Not all is perfect. While we liked the texture of the matzo balls, they are very peppery. My wife didn't care for the burn, though I enjoyed them, so this will be a strict matter of personal taste. The soup comes frozen and you're supposed to use it within three days, but defrosting it is quite the undertaking. At first we left it in the fridge, then transferred it to a counter, and finally ended up chipping away at the ice remaining in the plastic jar so we could get all the contents into a pot to heat. It would be good to have this arrive in some sort of container that would allow you to easily move the contents to a pot so the stove top could move the melting along.
Last big problem is price. The basic order of soup without any of the "extras" (we got a mug of highly respectable small brownies with ours) is $29 for a half gallon, accurately claimed to be enough to feed four to six. That's without shipping, which can run anywhere from $12, for next day in New England, to $51 for next day west of the Mississippi. That is a shame, because it turns what might be welcomed as a regular indulgence to a periodic treat. Perhaps one day Grandma could find a store chain that could offer the product in volume and make it easier to get when a cold first hit and not, between shipping and defrosting, a day or two after it was over.
Friday, November 21, 2008
Product Review: American Masala Mortar & Pestle Set
In the latest incoming round of test products, inevitable kicking up around this time of the year, came a mortar & pestle from the American Masala collection from Suvir Saran, chef/owner of Indian restaurant Devi in Manhattan, and manufactured by Wade Ceramics in England. The name is an allusion to complex spice mixtures and is certainly another way of looking at this country's melting pot. The result is a marvelous hand tool, too often neglected in modern kitchens, that looks good and works better.
There's a pleasure in seeing spices come together with some texture and not turned into powder by an electric grinder. It's like the difference between pureeing food and using a food mill. Grinding becomes an easier task when the mortar is a broad bowl offering a wide expanse of rough ceramic area on which to grind. The pestle bottom is similarly broad, which made quick work of a combination of anise, cardamom, and cloves that then went into a pot of hot water on the wood stove. (Great way to add scent to the air.) I was sent the larger 5-cup version in a pale green named for cardamom. The pestle handle is wrapped in a decorative pattern. It has a great feel in the hands and works the spices quickly, all without any electrical power, making it green in a different sense, as well.
The surfaces washed up pretty easily, though, like any mortar and pestle, some of the spice smell will linger. But then, the same thing will happen in an electric grinder, which will be much harder to clean given the usually small grinding space.
At $50, this isn't a cheap tool, and for some reason both the 2-cup and 5-cup versions are the same prices, which seems strange to me. As it's only available at the J.K. Adams online store, there's no chance to find a better price online at the present time, and it does make it hard for me to suggest it without reservation. If budget is a problem and the physical look isn't so important, check the Internet, or an Asian food store, if there's one nearby. We've had our stone mortar and pestle for years, and for most people the larger capacity won't be necessary.
There's a pleasure in seeing spices come together with some texture and not turned into powder by an electric grinder. It's like the difference between pureeing food and using a food mill. Grinding becomes an easier task when the mortar is a broad bowl offering a wide expanse of rough ceramic area on which to grind. The pestle bottom is similarly broad, which made quick work of a combination of anise, cardamom, and cloves that then went into a pot of hot water on the wood stove. (Great way to add scent to the air.) I was sent the larger 5-cup version in a pale green named for cardamom. The pestle handle is wrapped in a decorative pattern. It has a great feel in the hands and works the spices quickly, all without any electrical power, making it green in a different sense, as well.
The surfaces washed up pretty easily, though, like any mortar and pestle, some of the spice smell will linger. But then, the same thing will happen in an electric grinder, which will be much harder to clean given the usually small grinding space.
At $50, this isn't a cheap tool, and for some reason both the 2-cup and 5-cup versions are the same prices, which seems strange to me. As it's only available at the J.K. Adams online store, there's no chance to find a better price online at the present time, and it does make it hard for me to suggest it without reservation. If budget is a problem and the physical look isn't so important, check the Internet, or an Asian food store, if there's one nearby. We've had our stone mortar and pestle for years, and for most people the larger capacity won't be necessary.
Thursday, November 13, 2008
Review: Cuisipro Measuring Spoons
We got a couple of sets of measuring spoons in from Cuisipro to test, and they've already supplanted others in our kitchen as the working favorites. That's for three reasons, listed in ascending order of importance:
- They look cool, with a modern design sensibility.
- They are made of heavy-gauge stainless and are sturdy.
- The shape is not only aesthetically pleasing, but a case of smart engineering. Curves taper down toward the bottom, which means that when you pack something in, the contents release easily.
My wife checked against other measuring spoons we have to see if the actual measurements were accurate, and they were. (That may seem silly, but I've heard of measuring sets named after at least one TV celebrity chef that were off.)
There are two sets. One is a traditional collection of fractional teaspoons, teaspoon, and tablespoon, and that's the one I reach for. The other includes 'pinch', 1/8 tsp, 2/3 tsp, 1 1/2 tsp, and 2 tsp. I yawned at the latter, but my wife explained that I am, indeed, a dope (we both knew this) and that she uses such odd sizes all the time. So listen to her and buy both sets. Now I'll have to pick up one of the nested sets of measuring cups.
Labels: gadget, measurements, product, reviews
Tuesday, September 09, 2008
Review: Beck's Oktoberfest Beer
I'm not sure that I've ever had Beck's Oktoberfest variety before, although I believe that it has come out every year at around this time to tie in to Germany's festival (and excuse for rampant beer-drinking) of the same name. No matter - it has a complex taste, a little bitter at the end but pleasingly so (even if you're not a big fan of hops), and a hint of caramel with good body. This is a dark beer that isn't overly heavy or aggressive, and worth picking up. I know for a fact that it goes well with meatloaf, and would probably find a good setting with heavy comfort food, the taste being strong enough to work its way through, but enough lightness in the execution to avoid being overbearing.
Thursday, August 21, 2008
Review: Reed's, Virgil's Sodas
A case of drinks came in from the people who make Reed's and Virgil's sodas. Although I'm not typically a big fan of sodas, these are worth the purchase. They are brewed (presumably instead of adding syrup to carbonated water) and have clean, full taste. After some years of walking away from Coke, I can no longer abide the product, and never liked Pepsi. But the Virgil's Cola was outstandingly good. (The cola with Chinese herbs didn't grab me as much, but my wife liked it.) The cream soda and root beer are also admirable in their quality. The Reed's ginger-based drinks have a swaggering refinement - a kick you have to respect. Unfortunately, I didn't seem to get samples of the diet root beer or cream, which are now supposed to be naturally flavored. (I'm guessing that they use one of the sugar alcohols that have a sweet taste but no calories.) Pick some flavors up and remember why people invented soda in the first place.
Thursday, August 07, 2008
Review: Monty Python's Holy Grail Ale by Black Sheep Bottled Beers
I was a bit surprised and tickled when a family friend brought over a couple of bottles of Monty Python's Holy Grail ale. The g and r are crossed out on the label, so you have Holy Ail as a result. Apparently the beer "was commissioned to celebrate the 30th anniversary of the Pythons." If you're a Wickan, you may not appreciate the "tempered over burning witches" line at the bottom. Actually, I wasn't too crazy about it, but did like the rest of the label. The brew is a bit on the bitter side, but well rounded and enjoyable. I hear it's good with spam, spam, spam, eggs, and spam.
Wednesday, August 06, 2008
Review: 2005 Vale do Bomfim Reserva Douro DOC by Dow
When a sample bottle of 2005 Vale do Bomfim Reserva Douro DOC, a Portuguese wine from Dow, came in, we decided to bring it along with us to some friends and test it there. Don't make the mistake we did of immediately pouring it into a glass and drinking, because the result was unpleasantly astringent. But given a few minutes to breathe, it's a dry, rich, pleasant red with lots of fruit (no more details there - I'm not an olafactory greengrocer). We had it with grilled food and the wine held up well. A bottle will run about $12.
Tuesday, August 05, 2008
Review: Barefoot Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon
A brief review of great value wines: Barefoot Cellar's merlot and cabernet are worth getting. Don't let the oversized bottle and low price per volume ($13 in my area) fool you. These wines have great character and balance, and are pleasant even a few days after you opened one and popped the cork back in. I came across them by accident in a liquor store and, cheap person that I am, decided to give the merlot a shot. Because they are so drinkable, they become fabulous wines for cooking, as you get quality without feeling that you must carefully meter when you deglaze a pan or add some to a sauce. I haven't had any of their other wines (there's a good number), but given my experience so far, I'd try them with some degree of confidence.
