Flash in the Pan

Last week, Whole Foods had to recall a whole lot of ground beef because of E. coli contamination. This week, the Washington Post has a story on what happened. The problem, it seems, was that the ground beef was made from cuts of meat that could also have been used for steaks and roasts. USDA restrictions on contamination of such meat are looser because if there is E. coli, it's probably on the outside and going to be destroyed as you cook. But with ground beef, the bacteria get incorporated throughout the mixture, allowing some to keep some distance from the heat, and potentially making people sick.

Coleman, a trusted supplier for Whole Foods and many other retailers, had sold its beef business and the right to sell under the Coleman Natural Meat brand on June 1 to Meyer Angus Natural. Coleman said Meyer hired Nebraska Beef to process its meat. Meyer did not return phone calls.

The E. coli strain that sickened the Whole Foods customers matches a strain found in primal cuts that Nebraska Beef produced on July 8, according to the U.S. Department of Agriculture. As a result, Nebraska Beef on Friday recalled 1.2 million pounds of beef, its second recall this summer.

But so far as I can see, that's not the end of the story for consumers. Have you ever ground your own high-end hamburger, or maybe made some sausage? This story is certainly giving me second thoughts.

After the 1993 Jack in the Box E. coli outbreak that killed four children, the USDA declared it illegal to sell ground beef and any beef products intended for use in ground beef that are contaminated with E. coli O157:H7. But consumer advocates and meat inspectors have long criticized the USDA for not enforcing that policy equally when it comes to primal cuts even though they are sometimes used to make ground beef.

The beef industry has argued that steaks and roasts should be treated differently because they are less likely to make people sick.

It's the less likely wording that bothers me. How much of a chance should I and my family have of getting sick to preserve the profits of a corporation? Up until now, I had assumed that all meat would be treated the same. But it isn't, and the processors cannot have any idea of what consumers ultimately might be doing with their purchases. That should be clear on labeling, because clearly there aren't any stores that can be certain of what they have. If labeling is a burden, too bad. Being dangerously sick is even more of one.

Labels: E. coli, food safety, meat

A recent grilling special issue of Cook's Illustrated (with which I have a love hate relationship - good tips, but an arrogant approach to the best way to do this, that, and the other) mentioned using a pommade in making well-done burgers. I had forgotten about this, even though I use the technique in meatballs and meatloaf. The French word means a cream or ointment. In a cooking context, it's a term for making a paste and adding it to another mixture so that, after cooking, the result remains moist.

In this case, a good pommade is simply bread (one slice per pound of meat) soaked in enough milk to make it soggy, then rubbed into a paste. Mix the pommade with the ground meat, add in salt and any other flavorings you like (a teaspoon of Worcestershire sauce per pound of meat is a touch I like), and then make patties without packing the meat in. Cook as you normally would, watching for over cooking.

If you're used to feeling the burgers on top for how well done they are, remember that the pommade will make them feel squishier, therefore less done. I'd use a thermometer the first time or two using this technique. At least, I would have, had I thought ahead. Last week I tried it and the burgers came out medium well, rather than the medium rare most of my family prefers. Guess I'll have to try it again - and not spare the digital readout.

Labels: burger, meat, technique

Mark Bittman's article on a Puerto Rican pork roast called pernil got me to thinking about slow ovens. There's nothing particularly Latin about slowly cooking food, either in the oven or on the range. One of my favorite recipes is to take a brisket and a large pot (preferably one that can go on the range and in the oven). You chop a large onion, saute it in some olive or avocado oil in the pan over high heat, and cook until the pieces caramelize. While you're waiting, mix some all purpose flour with a bit of salt and ground pepper, and then coat the brisket in the mixture. When the onion is cooked, remove it and reserve. Now add some additional oil and brown the brisket on all sides. Then return the onions to the pot and add enough beef stock to come up an inch on the inside of the pot. Cover the pot, place it into a 250 degree oven, and cook for hours, or until a fork will go in with absolutely no resistance.

A second recipe is one that I first say in a James Villas book - a real potato gratin. Now there are apparently as many recipes for this dish as there are households in France, with each region having an overall approach that, of course, is the "correct" one. Some have cheese; some don't. Some use milk; some, cream. I take a 2 quart casserole dish, cut a clove of garlic open, and rub the inside of the dish with the cut faces. Using about 3 to 5 potatoes, depending on their size, I peel them and then slice each lengthwise to get pieces only 1/16th of an inch thick. I law a lawyer or two of potato slices in the dish, sprinkle them with a bit of salt and pepper, and then add some more layers. About halfway through, I dot the surface with butter, then add more layers. Give yourself at least half an inch at the top.

Now, mix some light cream and milk (or just light cream, if you prefer) in equal proportions, heat in a pot on the stove, and then pour the liquid into the casserole dish. You need just enough to come even with the top of the potatoes. Dot the top with butter, and then bake for at least 2.5 to 3 hours at 250 degrees. You'll know it's done when you have a brown crust on top. The effect is really cheesy, except without any cheese. This is a big favorite not only at our house, but when we're asked to contribute a dish to a supper cooked by people who've had the gratin at our house.

Labels: meat, potato, recipe