Friday, June 06, 2008
Product Review: DeLonghi EC155 Espresso/Cappuccino Maker
Here's another entry in my quest for the perfect - well, at least better - espresso experience. DeLonghi sent one of its EC155 espresso makers, with steam wand, for me to test. Overall, not bad - some inconveniences, but a pretty good option, at least for the beginner or person who doesn't want a lot of fuss. The machine is pump driven with 15 bar of pressure, which probably gets cut down to 9 bar when the water hits the grounds.
The one-liter water tank is not the largest I've seen, and the "easy to clean" claim only makes sense if you don't have large hands as I do, because the opening is wide but narrow. Thank heaven for cleaning brushes. But the tank does go on and off pretty easily. There is also storage next to the top of the tank for a portafilter coffee holder, which is important because the machine comes with two: one for two shots of espresso, and one for one. This way you can keep out one of the way when using the other.
The coffee holders seem to be of type that are intended to make crema - or the flavorful foam on top of the shots - more easily. Experts generally frown upon these, because they actually can damage the natural development and taste in the quest for something that looks good. I can attest that some fabulous beans that I picked up from Amherst Coffee - maybe the best espresso bar I've come across - just don't come out as well as I know is possible. However, comparing one of these lower-end machines to pro equipment is unfair. A complete espresso head may be disappointed, but if you don't find yourself fussy to a point that others consider a bit nutty, you should be fine.
The steam wand has one of those attachments that's supposed to make getting the right foam easy. I was actually surprised that it worked decently. The foam isn't as fine as I could get with a regular nozzle, but without a doubt it is decent, and if you haven't put in the practice time doing one batch of milk after another over weeks and months, you'll get acceptable results immediately. The one thing I didn't like about it is that the wand only swings from side to side and not up and down, which means you can run into difficulty trying to get the milk pitcher or a cup under the wand and even tougher getting it back again. At an online "street" price of about $100, you could do a whole lot worse while spending significantly more.
The one-liter water tank is not the largest I've seen, and the "easy to clean" claim only makes sense if you don't have large hands as I do, because the opening is wide but narrow. Thank heaven for cleaning brushes. But the tank does go on and off pretty easily. There is also storage next to the top of the tank for a portafilter coffee holder, which is important because the machine comes with two: one for two shots of espresso, and one for one. This way you can keep out one of the way when using the other.
The coffee holders seem to be of type that are intended to make crema - or the flavorful foam on top of the shots - more easily. Experts generally frown upon these, because they actually can damage the natural development and taste in the quest for something that looks good. I can attest that some fabulous beans that I picked up from Amherst Coffee - maybe the best espresso bar I've come across - just don't come out as well as I know is possible. However, comparing one of these lower-end machines to pro equipment is unfair. A complete espresso head may be disappointed, but if you don't find yourself fussy to a point that others consider a bit nutty, you should be fine.
The steam wand has one of those attachments that's supposed to make getting the right foam easy. I was actually surprised that it worked decently. The foam isn't as fine as I could get with a regular nozzle, but without a doubt it is decent, and if you haven't put in the practice time doing one batch of milk after another over weeks and months, you'll get acceptable results immediately. The one thing I didn't like about it is that the wand only swings from side to side and not up and down, which means you can run into difficulty trying to get the milk pitcher or a cup under the wand and even tougher getting it back again. At an online "street" price of about $100, you could do a whole lot worse while spending significantly more.
Wednesday, May 28, 2008
Product Review: Krups XP4030 Pump Manual Espresso Maker
I've recently been trying some new espresso equipment. One brewer has been the Krups XP4030 (street price about $150). It is a pump-driven semi-automatic system (as explained by CoffeeGeek.com) with a thermoblock to heat the water. This is definitely a low-end machine, and priced as such. No problem necessarily with that, as my favorite machine is the Starbucks barista (made for them by Estro). But there is a big drawback with thermoblock systems that experts note: difficulty in keeping a steady temperature level. Get the temperature wrong, and you get worse espresso.
The machine boasts 15 bar (otherwise known as 15 atmospheres) pressure, but most machines generally dissipate pressure until it is at 9 bar. Too much pressure and you could end up unable to let the water mingle with the grounds long enough to extract all the flavor. I found that espresso shots poured too fast for my taste, even as I tried more finely grinding the beans and tamping the grinds down more firmly. Plus, the espresso portafilters (the baskets that hold the grinds) have a single hole in the bottom, meant to "improve" the crema, I think, and tend to clog badly.
When it came to steaming milk, I found the machine completely unsatisfying. The attachment to make frothing "easier" was overly aggressive and wasn't capable of producing the fine foam that is a mark of properly steamed milk. I tried unscrewing the bottom part of the steam wand, but I couldn't do any steaming that way.
Overall, I'd say pass on this machine.
The machine boasts 15 bar (otherwise known as 15 atmospheres) pressure, but most machines generally dissipate pressure until it is at 9 bar. Too much pressure and you could end up unable to let the water mingle with the grounds long enough to extract all the flavor. I found that espresso shots poured too fast for my taste, even as I tried more finely grinding the beans and tamping the grinds down more firmly. Plus, the espresso portafilters (the baskets that hold the grinds) have a single hole in the bottom, meant to "improve" the crema, I think, and tend to clog badly.
When it came to steaming milk, I found the machine completely unsatisfying. The attachment to make frothing "easier" was overly aggressive and wasn't capable of producing the fine foam that is a mark of properly steamed milk. I tried unscrewing the bottom part of the steam wand, but I couldn't do any steaming that way.
Overall, I'd say pass on this machine.
Labels: appliance, coffee, espresso, opinion, product, review
Thursday, January 17, 2008
Experiments on the Latté Front
After going to Amherst Coffee and my near revelatory experience in lattés, I've been experimenting - so far with some success. Using my trusta Starbucks Barrista machine (I don't remember who actually makes it for them), I've been packing the portafilter with close to three tablespoons of gound espresso (currently trying some from Pierce Brothers, a local roaster, though Amherst Coffee using beans from Barrington Coffee Roasting Company). I tried a suggestion to tamp the grounds with 30 pounds of pressure, but my poor scale turns pale and passes out. So I made a good guess and brewed for about 25 seconds. I'm still not getting as syrupy a draw as I think I should, so that means some more experimenting, possibly making the grind a bit finer.
The big cloud clearing moment has been realizing just how much steamed milk I've been using, and cutting it by at least a third, if not a half. That starts gettijng tricky in the actual steaming, as a smaller pitcher would be helpful. But, all in all, while I haven't hit the Amherst mark, my lattés are significantly better. I just hope the experiment won't require an expenditure for a new espresso maker.
The big cloud clearing moment has been realizing just how much steamed milk I've been using, and cutting it by at least a third, if not a half. That starts gettijng tricky in the actual steaming, as a smaller pitcher would be helpful. But, all in all, while I haven't hit the Amherst mark, my lattés are significantly better. I just hope the experiment won't require an expenditure for a new espresso maker.
Tuesday, November 06, 2007
Review: Cuisinart Programmable Espresso Maker EM-200
I've been using a Starbucks Barista Espresso Maker (actually made by another company) for years, and while it needs some minor repairs, it's been dependable. So when I test an espresso machine, there's a pretty high bar: must work well, offer enough manual control to get the results I like, and be dependable. Cuisinart sent a Programmable Espresso Maker EM-200 for me to examine, and it has a lot going for it and, while not perfect, it has me wondering which machine I'd rather have on the counter. (Currently it's both, but my wife won't put up with that for long.)
On the plus side, it has a water tank that slides into position at the rear of the machine and doesn't require you to move all sorts of things out of the way to get at it. That may not sound important until you find yourself out of water in the middle of brewing espresso or steaming milk. The top of the plastic tank lifts up and out of the way, making it easy to pour more water in. However, I prefer to take the opportunity to rinse a tank out, as they can get a bit slimy when not regularly washed and rinsed.
Another strong point is both programmed settings for single and double shots, a manual button (if you prefer to time extraction rather than waiting for a specific amount of water to run through), and a button to let you change the programmed settings to what you like. The heated machine top for warming cups is nice, though on a cold morning, I hold my fingers there to thaw.
You get three holders for the basket: one for pod-packaged coffees, one for single shots, and a larger one for doubles. I didn't try pods, as I had none on hand. The double container felt a bit thin, and the basket lighter than I'm used to. The maker comes with two pins set into holders so you can unplug a blocked hole, a smart addition that more manufacturers should add.
Now for the slight drawbacks. The steaming wand seems to emit less steam than I'm used to, so getting milk to the right texture and temperature takes longer. The included milk pitcher is small, and the wand doesn't pull out far enough to make it easy to get a larger pitcher into place (though I've gotten the hang of it). The wand also has some sleeve over it, that turns the tip into a broad space that forces you to plunge it into the milk, making the bubbles too large. However, that sleeve actually slips off (as I accidentally learned while cleaning after a use), leaving you with more of a nozzle that lets you get the necessary angle for proper steamed milk.
The machine is also pretty noisy. Even when you're done brewing or steaming, the machine suddenly starts erupting steam through the base where you place the espresso pitcher to catch the liquid. It doesn't do any harm, but it's a bit distracting the first few times it happens. It would be nice if the maker also had a storage spot to keep the paraphernalia that comes with it. One other thing - be careful about putting a bit too much coffee into the basket, as it can get blocked up, building up pressure and not shooting out water. And opening the basket can turn into a mildly explosive and majorly messy experience.
On the whole, though, it's a decent machine and has more versatility than one of the fully-automatic variety that forces you to make do with whatever some engineer decided was the "proper" amount of water. At a suggested retail of $399, it is on the pricier side, but my experience with the durability of Cuisinart products has been good, so I doubt it's money you'd be throwing away. Plus, think of all the money you could save not heading to the local expensive espresso drink chain.
On the plus side, it has a water tank that slides into position at the rear of the machine and doesn't require you to move all sorts of things out of the way to get at it. That may not sound important until you find yourself out of water in the middle of brewing espresso or steaming milk. The top of the plastic tank lifts up and out of the way, making it easy to pour more water in. However, I prefer to take the opportunity to rinse a tank out, as they can get a bit slimy when not regularly washed and rinsed.
Another strong point is both programmed settings for single and double shots, a manual button (if you prefer to time extraction rather than waiting for a specific amount of water to run through), and a button to let you change the programmed settings to what you like. The heated machine top for warming cups is nice, though on a cold morning, I hold my fingers there to thaw.
You get three holders for the basket: one for pod-packaged coffees, one for single shots, and a larger one for doubles. I didn't try pods, as I had none on hand. The double container felt a bit thin, and the basket lighter than I'm used to. The maker comes with two pins set into holders so you can unplug a blocked hole, a smart addition that more manufacturers should add.
Now for the slight drawbacks. The steaming wand seems to emit less steam than I'm used to, so getting milk to the right texture and temperature takes longer. The included milk pitcher is small, and the wand doesn't pull out far enough to make it easy to get a larger pitcher into place (though I've gotten the hang of it). The wand also has some sleeve over it, that turns the tip into a broad space that forces you to plunge it into the milk, making the bubbles too large. However, that sleeve actually slips off (as I accidentally learned while cleaning after a use), leaving you with more of a nozzle that lets you get the necessary angle for proper steamed milk.
The machine is also pretty noisy. Even when you're done brewing or steaming, the machine suddenly starts erupting steam through the base where you place the espresso pitcher to catch the liquid. It doesn't do any harm, but it's a bit distracting the first few times it happens. It would be nice if the maker also had a storage spot to keep the paraphernalia that comes with it. One other thing - be careful about putting a bit too much coffee into the basket, as it can get blocked up, building up pressure and not shooting out water. And opening the basket can turn into a mildly explosive and majorly messy experience.
On the whole, though, it's a decent machine and has more versatility than one of the fully-automatic variety that forces you to make do with whatever some engineer decided was the "proper" amount of water. At a suggested retail of $399, it is on the pricier side, but my experience with the durability of Cuisinart products has been good, so I doubt it's money you'd be throwing away. Plus, think of all the money you could save not heading to the local expensive espresso drink chain.
Friday, July 06, 2007
Recipe: Frozen Vanilla Coffee
After having frozen coffee drinks from Dunkin Donuts, Starbucks, and a local place called Shelburne Coffee Roasters, I decided to try my hand. Here are the results:
- 1 1/2 ounces freshly brewed espresso
- 6 ounces milk
- 3 TBS. sugar
- 1/8 tsp. vanilla
- 1 cup ice
