Flash in the Pan

Yesterday, Starbucks announced that it would be closing "600 underperforming company-operated stores in the U.S. market, which includes our previously announced plans to close 100 stores," according to A Message from Howard. He started with all the wonderful things that happened since becoming CEO again, and mentioned such upcoming things as the introduction of "healthy, good-for-you beverages" starting July 15. (Healthy? Good-for-you? Is this still a coffee spot?)

In addition, in Southern California, we will introduce a refreshing, indulgent cold iced beverage. Steeped in Italian heritage, it will be an exclusive product that our customers can only find at Starbucks.

Sure, other companies will probably call it something else once they lift the concept. But then came the bad news - under performing stores would close, full- and part-time employees would lose their jobs. At least they say they'll be offering employees either a position at a nearby store (though once you're out of major cities, heaven knows what "nearby" will mean) or some severance. And given how they have benefits even for many part-time workers, I can't fault them. The chain simply expanded faster than its audience.

I even have some sympathy for CEO Schultz. Clearly he's been torn between the business becoming enormous and wanting the atmosphere of a cafe with comfortable seats for deliberate loitering over a cup of coffee and the smell of freshly ground beans in the air. But you can't be big and neighborhood at the same time, which shows that even success doesn't mean that you'll be happy and free of conflict.

Now, if only they'd stop over-roasting their beans.

Labels: business, coffee, Starbucks

Here's another entry in my quest for the perfect - well, at least better - espresso experience. DeLonghi sent one of its EC155 espresso makers, with steam wand, for me to test. Overall, not bad - some inconveniences, but a pretty good option, at least for the beginner or person who doesn't want a lot of fuss. The machine is pump driven with 15 bar of pressure, which probably gets cut down to 9 bar when the water hits the grounds.

The one-liter water tank is not the largest I've seen, and the "easy to clean" claim only makes sense if you don't have large hands as I do, because the opening is wide but narrow. Thank heaven for cleaning brushes. But the tank does go on and off pretty easily. There is also storage next to the top of the tank for a portafilter coffee holder, which is important because the machine comes with two: one for two shots of espresso, and one for one. This way you can keep out one of the way when using the other.

The coffee holders seem to be of type that are intended to make crema - or the flavorful foam on top of the shots - more easily. Experts generally frown upon these, because they actually can damage the natural development and taste in the quest for something that looks good. I can attest that some fabulous beans that I picked up from Amherst Coffee - maybe the best espresso bar I've come across - just don't come out as well as I know is possible. However, comparing one of these lower-end machines to pro equipment is unfair. A complete espresso head may be disappointed, but if you don't find yourself fussy to a point that others consider a bit nutty, you should be fine.

The steam wand has one of those attachments that's supposed to make getting the right foam easy. I was actually surprised that it worked decently. The foam isn't as fine as I could get with a regular nozzle, but without a doubt it is decent, and if you haven't put in the practice time doing one batch of milk after another over weeks and months, you'll get acceptable results immediately. The one thing I didn't like about it is that the wand only swings from side to side and not up and down, which means you can run into difficulty trying to get the milk pitcher or a cup under the wand and even tougher getting it back again. At an online "street" price of about $100, you could do a whole lot worse while spending significantly more.

Labels: coffee, espresso, opinion, product, review

I've recently been trying some new espresso equipment. One brewer has been the Krups XP4030 (street price about $150). It is a pump-driven semi-automatic system (as explained by CoffeeGeek.com) with a thermoblock to heat the water. This is definitely a low-end machine, and priced as such. No problem necessarily with that, as my favorite machine is the Starbucks barista (made for them by Estro). But there is a big drawback with thermoblock systems that experts note: difficulty in keeping a steady temperature level. Get the temperature wrong, and you get worse espresso.

The machine boasts 15 bar (otherwise known as 15 atmospheres) pressure, but most machines generally dissipate pressure until it is at 9 bar. Too much pressure and you could end up unable to let the water mingle with the grounds long enough to extract all the flavor. I found that espresso shots poured too fast for my taste, even as I tried more finely grinding the beans and tamping the grinds down more firmly. Plus, the espresso portafilters (the baskets that hold the grinds) have a single hole in the bottom, meant to "improve" the crema, I think, and tend to clog badly.

When it came to steaming milk, I found the machine completely unsatisfying. The attachment to make frothing "easier" was overly aggressive and wasn't capable of producing the fine foam that is a mark of properly steamed milk. I tried unscrewing the bottom part of the steam wand, but I couldn't do any steaming that way.

Overall, I'd say pass on this machine.

Labels: appliance, coffee, espresso, opinion, product, review

I must confess to some frustration since my wife has started a one household campaign against high fructose corn syrup. She's read some pretty hard health criticism of the substance and so has decided to eliminate what she sees as one potential threat to our family members - and put that way, I can hardly disagree. However, it is amazing how many products have HFCS (the acronym she has started to use). As we started to scrub our incoming goods, I realized that Hershey's chocolate syrup was also now on the forbidden list. This was tough, because I use it both in making iced mochas as well as for egg creams. (Yes, I know about U-Bet, but this is generally easier to get.) And then she rescued my sweet tooth by finding Trader Joe's Organic Midnight Moo.

Not only does it lack HFCS, and not only does it have organic ingredients, but it has great taste. I'm finding that both mochas and egg creams are much better than with Hershey's, and, I'm starting to think, even better than with U-Bet. Yes, it's a bit pricey, but then, so is a liver transplant. I can happily recommend what I thought was going to substitute but instead supplanted my former choice.

Labels: chocolate, coffee, opinion, product, review

Calling the Krups GVX2 (the all-black model is the GVX1) a "burr milling system" seems pretentious, so let's use a more realistic name: burr coffee grinder. For the most part, it does what it is supposed to, which is definitely good, although there are a few quirks that I didn't completely care for.

What generally makes a burr grinder superior to a blade system, at least for coffee, is the ability to set the texture of the grind with an adjustment mechanism, and not by trying to guess what amount of whirring corresponds to what you need. And there was an adjustment knob on the side of the GVX2. However, I found that it didn't set finely enough for espresso; the coffee brewed a few seconds too quickly for my taste even when I had the grinder at the finest setting. I was also ambivalent about setting the number of coffee measures you want and then pressing a button, which is really setting a timer to get the "right" amount of coffee. That worked roughly the same as the old Capresso model I used that finally gave up the ghost after years of service. But if you found yourself a bit short, there was no obvious way of getting just a little bit more. (Actually, I found that pushing the start button a second time would turn off the grinder, which had the same end effect.)

The hopper didn't have room for a lot of beans at a time, though enough for a double espresso or a few cups of coffee. Given how much room the two measures of espresso took up in the receptacle (it did keep the grounds contained nicely), I wouldn't have tried for 12 measures all at once, as I would have been concerned about it backing up into the machine.

I also found that at times the coffee would stop moving through the grinder, which was still on, and I'd have to give it a shake to get things moving again. Overall, it's a fair grinder, though not a great one. However, the list price of $59.99 makes it a reasonable entry-level machine choice.

Labels: appliance, coffee, equipment, product, review

Although the DeLonghi DCG39 doesn't do well everything it seems to advertise, it has enough features and smart design to make it worth having if you need to grind things, like coffee beans or spices. The overall look is clean and visually appealing, with a great feature of an electrical cord that hand reels back into the body when you are done; the knob is hidden out of side underneath the unit.

You turn a knob on the front to set how much coffee you want and then hold down a button and watch LEDs light to tell you whether the coffee is coarse, medium, or fine. Because there is no hopper that feeds beans into the grinder, to be dispensed below, setting the volume is critical because it will affect for how long the grinding occurs. That makes operation a tad clumsy, but then, using older fashioned grinders, like my probably 20 year old Krups model, requires you to keep an eye on the results and to check from time to time to be sure the texture is right. So you have to do the same basic thing here.

The front knob lets you pick anywhere from 4 to 12 cups of coffee. That works well with my regular (not espresso) coffee maker, because it makes a minimum of four cups. But if you want to make a single or double cup, you really have to keep a close eye.

As far as the "fineness" lights that go on, it was a bit confusing at first. It turns out that you hold the button and wait for the lights to come on in succession. If you're looking for a medium grind (for drip coffee makers), you wait until that comes on, but the coarse (percolators or coffee presses) will also be lit. Although there is a fine grind for espresso, if you're serious about that drink, you simply don't have the control in adjustment to get a consistent pour, which you absolutely need. However, in an emergency it could do, and I suspect it would be fine if you wanted to experiment with Turkish style, in which you boil the grounds with water and some spices (cinnamon and cardamom, I believe).

The street price seems to be about $30, which seems fair for what you get. Overall, if you don't need to make espresso on a regular basis, this is a decent grinder choice.

Labels: appliance, coffee, product, review

Starbucks has faced increasing competition as it increasingly has turned itself into a giant coffee machine. Where once baristas applied skill to get espresso shots to turn out the right way (or at least as right as you can get when your beans are overly roasted), now it's a push button land. And when coffee is the result of pushing buttons, of course a McDonald's or Dunkin Donuts can enter the market. Hell, it only requires buying the equipment. So CEO Howard Schultz has announced a series of steps to improve "the coffee experience," as reported by the Financial Times:

• Install lower-height automatic espresso machines so you can see the bored look in the barista's eyes.
• Add yet another coffee blend that is different from all the other ones the chain has sold.
• Buy a company that makes single-cup grinding and brewing machines for filter coffee and put them into select stores because, as you know, more things to look at or buy means better coffee.
• Provide extra ingredients and toppings to people who use the Starbucks purchase cards because that way your coffee becomes even more of a commodity.
• Start a social networking site to let people suggest ideas and vote on them, which doesn't sound all that tasty, but what do I know?
• Get into health and wellness food and drink, which probably means cutting the caffeine and, therefore, the coffee that they want to promote.

I wasn't impressed with the "training session" they did last month, bringing all their employees in on a night for three hours of training. (Wonder how you train people to push buttons better.) Maybe Starbucks hasn't jumped the shark, but it sure sounds like there may be a fin circling at the top of you next cup of java - extra shot, soy milk, extra hot, hold the foam.

Labels: business, coffee, humor

I should start by saying that I have an almost absolute dislike for flavored coffees. I generally hold that if I want an added taste, I can put in a shot of some more naturally-flavored syrup, go for something chicory-laced, or even add some ground cinnamon, cardamom, or other spice before brewing. But I have to admit that Flavorbean coffees are pretty good.

According to the PR materials, most flavored beans are made using chemical solvents to deposit the taste on the coffee. I don't know that independently, but, if true, that perhaps explains the overly aggressive and harshness I've found when I've tried such brews. But the french vanilla and hazelnut varieties I received from the company to test were really pleasant. They claim that the coffees are "naturally flavored," which can be a slippery label to understand. But if you like flavored coffee, I'd suggest giving these a try.

And if you want something really different, add a half teaspoon of good cinnamon to the grounds. It's a lovely way to start an early morning.

Labels: coffee, opinion, product, review

After going to Amherst Coffee and my near revelatory experience in lattés, I've been experimenting - so far with some success. Using my trusta Starbucks Barrista machine (I don't remember who actually makes it for them), I've been packing the portafilter with close to three tablespoons of gound espresso (currently trying some from Pierce Brothers, a local roaster, though Amherst Coffee using beans from Barrington Coffee Roasting Company). I tried a suggestion to tamp the grounds with 30 pounds of pressure, but my poor scale turns pale and passes out. So I made a good guess and brewed for about 25 seconds. I'm still not getting as syrupy a draw as I think I should, so that means some more experimenting, possibly making the grind a bit finer.

The big cloud clearing moment has been realizing just how much steamed milk I've been using, and cutting it by at least a third, if not a half. That starts gettijng tricky in the actual steaming, as a smaller pitcher would be helpful. But, all in all, while I haven't hit the Amherst mark, my lattés are significantly better. I just hope the experiment won't require an expenditure for a new espresso maker.

Labels: coffee, espresso

If you ever find yourself in or near Amherst, Massachusetts - perhaps visiting one of the local schools, such as Smith or the University of Massachusetts, Amherst, or in another town such as Hadley or Northampton - and you like coffee, you must, must, must make time to visit Amherst Coffee. I had heard that they made a good cup, but didn't realize just how good until I stopped by with my wife as we were out bopping around the town, stopping first for noodle soup and then visiting book stores.

I ordered a latte and was almost dumbfounded by how good it was. The crema and general mix was much darker than I'm used to. Reading the web site gives one clue: triple ristretto shots in all their espresso drinks. If the term isn't familiar, a ristretto is a concentrated espresso, using half the water of a normal espresso shot, but the same amount of coffee. ironically, in Italian, the word means restricted, but the process opens up intense new venues of flavor. I also found the small latte to contain far less milk than I'm used to having or using. As a result, the drink is darker and more intense, only without the pure edge that espresso alone can give. I liken it to the difference between drinking a good whiskey neat and cut with some water. The latter removes some of the burn of the alcohol, allowing you to taste the flavors more than you might otherwise.

This morning I got closer to what they had by packing the ground espresso more tightly than I usually do and running the water for about 25 to 30 seconds. I used at most half the milk, and the result was closer. But I'm going to try this with the ristretto and see if I can duplicate the results. And if you want some pointers on making espresso, Home-Barista.com is a site I just came across.

And before I forget, if you get to Amherst Coffee, see if they have a pastry they call a snail. This deceptively simply snack is a strip of puff pastry, covered in honey and poppy seeds, rolled, topped with more seeds, and baked. It's lovely, with a deep flavor that grows on you.

Labels: cafes, coffee, opinion, review

I've seen a lot of coffee makers in my day, and while for non-espresso type I still like vacuum brewing, I'm impressed by the practicality of De’Longhi's new machine. The DCF212T is smart because they designed it for people who live in real kitchens, and who often have to shove an appliance under a cabinet or shelf. A door swings out from the machine and gives you access to both the grounds filter and to a trough that directs water back into the tank. There's no need to slide the unit out any more.

The carafe holds up to 12 cups (six ounces each, I think). When I was running the first two obligatory tanks of water to clean it out before regular use, I found that if I didn't push the glass container back far enough, no water came out - an obvious and hardly innovative feature, but nice to know that it's there. Not only does the filter come out for easy cleaning, but so does the filter basket.

You can set the internal clock and then a timer, to prepare water and grounds the night before and then have it automatically start brewing in the morning. Setting the clock took some time, as you hold one button down and wait for the right time to come by. Keep the button pushed in, and it starts going through the numbers faster and faster, so you're not there all day. Another nice touch is the Aroma button - if you're making less than a full pot, press this and it drips water in more slowly to extract more of the flavor. I liked the results, though you do wait considerably longer for the coffee to be done. The built in warming plate kept liquid warm for hours, though I'd have to have coffee sitting around for that long. But if you don't mind, it won't be cold.

Not all is perfect. Although I filled the tank up to the 4 cup line, using the Aroma button I got more like 3 cups in the carafe. When I ran water straight through, it seemed to come out right, so I'm guessing that the difference is in water retained by the grounds. You might consider testing first, and possibly making a bit "more" than usual so it comes out where you want. Also, they recommend 1 TBS. of grounds per cup, which is a bit weak. Admirably, they also give the amounts suggested by some specialty coffee association, which starts off at 2 TBS. a cup and eventually lessens, so 8 cups of coffee don't need 16 TBS. of grounds. However, given the size of the basket, if you take these recommendations you can only load enough grounds for 10 cups at those recommendations.

However, that's almost to the level of a quibble. Overall, this is a great concept, and at $49.95, reasonably priced as well.

Labels: coffee, opinion, product, review

A PR firm for Jim's Organic Coffee sent a pound of the company's Wonderbrew blend beans. The package calls it a lower acid coffee - a tough label in general, because there are probably no standards for this, but our tasting panel - various people hanging out for breakfast last weekend - found that it did have less bight and brightness, which is typical with lower acid coffees. Unlike others I've had, though, it didn't taste thin. If regular coffee acidity puts you off to tea, try this blend. A pound of beans bought directly from the company is $9.70, plus whatever they will charge for shipping - I'd have checked, but I would first have had to register on the company's web site, which, frankly, I found off-putting. Also, I thought it odd that the coffee packaging mentioned low acid, but that the description on the web site didn't. Sounds like it's time for a little editing.

Labels: coffee, Jim's, opinion, organic, review

I was reading a Financial Times column (sorry, but you have to be a subscriber for the link to work), and read how the newest battle ground for Coke and Pepsi is coffee. The soda market is under pressure, and, presumably, so is the bottled water market, with other companies providing significant competition. So the two soda giants have moved to cold ready-to-drink (RTD) combinations of coffee and milk. Presumably, hot coffee is almost ready to drink and will be when it cools down sufficiently. Pepsi has already partnered with Starbucks, and now Coke is about to with Illy:

The Italian company’s chairman, Andrea Illy, says he is proud to be associated with Coca-Cola to offer the “Illy taste” to a new range of consumers, as well as for existing ones to experience “new consumption moments”, whatever that may mean.

Black coffee purists should be bracing themselves for dark days ahead.

Indeed.

Labels: coffee, Coke, Illy, Pepsi, RTD, Starbucks

After having frozen coffee drinks from Dunkin Donuts, Starbucks, and a local place called Shelburne Coffee Roasters, I decided to try my hand. Here are the results:

• 1 1/2 ounces freshly brewed espresso


• 6 ounces milk


• 3 TBS. sugar


• 1/8 tsp. vanilla


• 1 cup ice

Put all the ingredients into a blender and blend until smooth.

Labels: coffee, espresso, frozen, recipe, vanilla

In a press release I read a claim that "Turkey's leading specialty coffee roaster and retailer" is called ... John's Coffee.

John's? does that mean soon I'll learn that England's premiere supplier of meat pies will be Mustafa's Pasties?

Labels: coffee, Turkey, weird