Tuesday, July 31, 2007

 

Recipe: Rye Bread

One of the unfortunate things about my upcoming Complete Idiot's Guide to Pizza and Panini is that I ran out of room and so I had to cut a number of recipes. Here's one for rye bread - an easy way to add some excitement to a sandwich.

Yield: 2 loaves
Prep time: 3 hours
Cook time: 25 minutes
Serving size: 2 slices

Ingredients

Directions

  1. In a small bowl, add 1 cup water to rye flour. Let soak for 20 minutes.

  2. In a small bowl, add yeast to remaining water, and stir until dissolved.

  3. In a large bowl, combine 4 cups bread flour, rye flour, ground caraway seed (if using), 1 tablespoon whole caraway seed (if using), and salt, and mix thoroughly with a wooden spoon. Add water and yeast mixture and rye flour and water mixture to the bowl, and mix. Add additional bread flour, 2 tablespoons at a time as necessary, until dough comes away from the sides of the bowl.

  4. Sprinkle flour on work surface, place dough on surface, and knead dough for 10 minutes until dough is satiny.

  5. Add vegetable oil to the empty bowl, and swirl the bowl to coat the inside. Don't worry if there's a little oil left in the bottom of the bowl. Return dough to the bowl, and turn dough to coat with oil. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap, and let dough double in volume.

  6. When dough has doubled in volume, turn out onto a floured work surface and fold to deflate. Divide dough into 2 parts. Shape each portion of dough into a loaf, and place in 2 greased 8[1/2]-inch loaf pans. Lightly oil two pieces of plastic wrap, each large enough to cover one pan, and loosely cover each pan, oil side in. Allow top of bread to reach top of pan.

  7. Preheat the oven to 350ºF. Remove the plastic from the pans, and brush each loaf with water. Sprinkle tops with remaining 1 tablespoon caraway seeds (if using). Bake 25 minutes or until the top is golden brown and the bottom, when removed from the pan, sounds hollow when tapped.

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Monday, July 30, 2007

 

Strange News from the Food Front (7/30/07)

A weekly round-up of food and drink oddities:

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Friday, July 27, 2007

 

Mapping New York Cheap Eats

An article in the New York Times about people making maps on the web and annotating them with all sorts of information mentioned one for inexpensive but good (I hope) restaurants in Manhattan. I took a look at it and it's interesting. A knife and fork duo mark each establishment and the names appear to the left. Click on a restaurant name and a balloon, pointing to the spot, opens up, gives you the address, and offers directions. I'm waiting for an online map that can also deliver samples.

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Thursday, July 26, 2007

 

Product Review: Trader Joe's Blackberries in Light Syrup

Tsk, tsk, late with my entry today. Ah, well, it happens from time to time - it is summer, after all. And what better to consider in this season than berries. Blackberries. I'm lucky to live in a part of the country where fresh berries are available in season. But if the season is over, or if you're not near farms, your choices might be more limited.

We recently purchased a jar of Trader Joe's Blackberries in Light Syrup - 15 ounces for $1.29, which is certainly cheaper than getting even a half pint of fresh. My test bed was a couple of scoops of French vanilla ice cream, berries put on top. It's a good thing I had the sweet base, because even being in light syrup, these berries had a sour kick to them. Now, berries, like most fruit, are unpredictable. I've bought pints where some were sweet and others sour. But, so far, each of the berries had that combination of sweet (presumably from the syrup) and sour (from the berry).

They do look nice and ship in a glass jar, so they don't get crushed or otherwise mangled on their way to your fridge. But I'd be careful in how and where I used them. This can be a way to add a decorative touch to a dessert, as you'd probably have enough sweet taste already where the contrast might work. Given the yin/yang taste, you might be able to use them in something savory - for example, as a condiment to game meat. Just don't spoon them out and not expect a slight urge to pucker.

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Wednesday, July 25, 2007

 

Cranberry Recipe Contest

Do you have a kinship with the cranberry? Like to add those little red globes that bounce to almost any dish? Ocean Spray is having its first Ultimate Cranberry Recipe Contest. Creator of the winning recipe walks away with $25,000. That could buy many of the "red wonderberry," as the company calls them. (It sounds like they could really do with a trip away from the office.) Here are some of the requirements from the press release:
Recipes must be original, use a minimum of 1/2 cup of any Ocean Spray product (beverages 1 1/2 ounces), and fall into one of the following categories: Beverages, Snacks and Appetizers, Salads, Main Dishes, Side Dishes, Desserts and Baked Goods. Recipes will be judged on creativity, use of product, taste, overall appearance and ease of preparation. Entries must be postmarked by August 23, 2007 and received by August 31, 2007.
Four semi-finalists head to New York in November for a final judging. Each finalist gets a trip for two to New York and a year's supply of products from Ocean Spray. There's more, and official entry guidelines (are these things ever non-official?)

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Tuesday, July 24, 2007

 

New Low-Sugar Watermelon Varieties

The Agricultural Research Service, part of the US Department of Agriculture, has developed two new varieties of watermelon that have less than half the sugar of conventional varieties. The researcher, Angela Davis, is "currently sharing the new watermelon stock with interested growers," which I'm guessing means that you shouldn't be looking for them this summer. It will take time to create enough for commercial seed stock and then for growers to actually have them in stores.

The sugary taste we associate with watermelon is apparently a recent development. Companies have bred the fruit (OK, technically a berry) to be ever sweet. Heirloom varieties actually have about 25 percent less sugar than contemporary types. They had some difficulty getting a real red color, as that often goes hand in hand with sugar, but apparently they've conquered that barrier. And they also have a variety part way between the usual types and this more astringent version.

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Monday, July 23, 2007

 

Strange News from the Food Front (7/23/07)

A weekly round-up of food and drink oddities:

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Friday, July 20, 2007

 

Cookbook Review: Cucina Del Sole

There are three things that immediately irritate me about Cucina Del Sole, a "celebration of southern Italian Cooking," written by Nancy Harmon Jenkins. One is calling it a celebration. Sorry, but the word is overused, and I see no streamers and party hats in my office at the moment. The other is a blurb by Alice Waters, who seems to have become a professional book promoter, as I run across her name on the back of one book after another. (Alright, maybe it was just two in a row, but that was too many.) And then there are no pictures, as happens all too often in cookbooks these days.

But the lack of pictures makes more room for the writing, which is engaging, and I'm delighted to find someone whose penchant for rambling sentences exceeds even mine. The recipes are marvelous and often surprising. For example, I had done a lot of research into pizza last year as I finished the Complete Idiot's Guide to Pizza and Panini, but I had never seen an approach that called for a biga - a starter slurry of flour, water, and yeast that is variously called a poolish, levain, or sponge, depending on where in the world you are. (And certainly I hadn't seen the tip of adding a teaspoon of white vinegar to adjust the pH of the dough and make it easier to work.) There's a recipe for making semolina-based pasta, rather than the ubiquitous northern Italian approach of eggs and regular flour. There are terrific seafood recipes (no surprise in southern Italy) and meat dishes with variations that are usual in English texts, like Sicilian Braised Rabbit in a Sweet-and-Sour Sauce. The delights continue through vegetables (Marsala Carrots - what a natural pairing) and desserts (Olive Oil Cake with Walnuts). List price is $29.95, and it will be worth every penny - and a lot cheaper than flying to Italy to collect the recipes and know-how yourself.

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Thursday, July 19, 2007

 

Recipe: Sautéed Strawberries with Cracked Black Pepper and Orange Liqueur Marmalade

At the end of June, I received this recipe from Cointreau's US PR agency. New York chef Geoffrey Zakarian created it "in partnership" with the liqueur company - which probably translates to Cointreau paying Zakarian to create the recipe and mention the brand name drink. Of course you could substitute anything similar, such as Grand Marnier, triple sec, Bauchant, or Harlequin.

Ingredients

Directions

  1. To make the marmalade, in a small saucepan over medium heat, combine orange liqueur and 1 Tbs. brown sugar. Reduce to 1/8 cup. Set aside.

  2. Heat butter in medium saucepan over high heat. When melted, add 1/2 tsp. brown sugar and cook until lightly caramelized, about three minutes.

  3. Add strawberries and vanilla bean to saucepan and sauté for 15 seconds. Add 1/4 tsp. black pepper and sauté for 30 more seconds.

  4. Add mint and immediately split among six serving dishes. Garnish each dish with 1 Tbs. crème fraiche and 1/4 tsp. black pepper. Drizzle with warm marmalade. Serve immediately.
I can also see a variation: leave the vanilla out of step 3 and forget the crème fraiche. Instead, cook through step three, put 1 scoop of good vanilla ice cream in each dish, top the ice cream with the strawberries, and garnish with the pepper and marmalade.

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Wednesday, July 18, 2007

 

Technique: Getting Rid of Garlic Smell

I love garlic but hate having the smell on my hands. When I've been chopping some cloves, I remember an old professional trick. When you're done with the work, take something made of stainless steel - like a spoon, for example - and rub it over your hands. It immediately dispatches the odor. I don't know exactly why it works, but it does.

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Tuesday, July 17, 2007

 

Product Review: SACO Cultured Buttermilk Blend

Those used to professional baking recipes will doubtless be familiar with using powdered milk instead of the liquid variety. In baking breads, I've taken to this practice. But I've always used liquid buttermilk when I needed that ingredient, and have never even liked soured milk as an alternative. I was surprised when my wife and I found SACO Cultured Buttermilk Blend on a local grocery shelf. We picked some up and I gave it a try last night in biscuits. It was a pleasure and added the flavor I wanted (though I couldn't figure out where I has put the baking soda, so had to make do with baking powder). According to the web site, what you get these days as real buttermilk in cartons is actually cultured skim and not the byproduct of butter making. The company's web site touts the qualities of the results. I can't speak to the long term keeping (biscuits go within a day in this house), but I did like the texture of the results. Four tablespoons - rated as having 80 calories - is the amount you need for a cup of buttermilk, which is significantly less than whole milk. I automatically mixed the powder with the other dry ingredients, as I would with milk powder - and which is the approach the company suggests. The only inconvenience I see facing us is that after you open the container, it's supposed to go into the refrigerator. But then, I have a feeling it won't smell as bad as one of those buttermilk containers that you buy for a cup worth and then forget you have sitting around. Here's the biscuit recipe:
  1. Preheat oven to 375º F.
  2. Thoroughly mix dry incredients.

  3. Cut in butter until you get a coarse meal-like consistency.

  4. Add just enough water to hold dough together.

  5. Knead dough on a floured surface for about 30 seconds. Roll out to 1/4-inch thick. Cut into 3-inch rounds.

  6. Place rounds on ungreased cookie sheet. Bake about 15 minutes or until golden brown on top.

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Monday, July 16, 2007

 

Strange News from the Food Front (7/16/07)

A weekly round-up of food and drink oddities:

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Sunday, July 15, 2007

 

Organic Foods from China?

I saw a press release from a company called China Organic Agriculture, which currently focuses on organic rice. At a time when Chinese food products have caused so many health problems becasue of contamination, the idea of having that country enter the organic food supply is disconcerting. According to a page no longer on the company's site, but still in Google's cache, selling to the US is apparently one of its goals. Given the New York Times story about the widespread nature of problem foods, I think my organic purchasing will stick to home grown products.

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Friday, July 13, 2007

 

Spin from Whole Foods Starts at Top

I was actually taken aback when I heard that for years Whole Foods founder and CEO John Mackey used to go into finance chat rooms anonymously to act as a cheerleader and to attack rival Wild Oats, which he now wants his company to acquire. The Federal Trade Commission filed suit this week to block the merger. As Bloomberg reports:
Mackey, 53, made the postings "under an alias to avoid having his comments associated with the company and to avoid others placing too much emphasis on his remarks," Whole Foods said in an e-mailed statement yesterday.
Oh, please, who is the Whole Foods PR machine trying to kid? He posted it anonymously to keep himself off the hook of criticism and of potential charges that he was trying to game the stock prices. But then, as I learned first hand, the Whole Foods PR department isn't above trying to say things like manmade synthetic versions of chemicals fed to salmon to color them aren't artificial dyes. In fact, I received an anonymous comment from someone trying to take the "It really is all natural" which makes me wonder if Mr. Mackey's comments went farther and wider than the Yahoo chat rooms.

Fortune is asking if he's too much of a loose canon to have as CEO of a pubicly-held company. As a consumer I'm wondering just how much more I'm going to be paying as a result.

Mackey is trying to put a good face on the whole FTC challenge, going on at length about it on his corporate blog, but then ended up posting the internal memo that the FTC is supposedly using as part of its case. What were reasons one and two for the move?:
Elimination of an acquisition opportunity for a conventional supermarket — our targeted company is the only existing company that has the brand and number of stores to be a meaningful springboard for another player to get into this space. Eliminating them means eliminating this threat forever, or almost forever.

Elimination of a competitor — they compete with us for sites, customers and Team Members.
He then went on to try and explain the memo. Interestingly, the memo was all about what it would do for the company - and that's fair enough, because, after all, it's a business move. But then as Mackey is trying explain why its so reasonable (twisting logic in some places, like trying to say that if the FTC objected to this merger, they should have objected to all acquisitions the company had done), he forgets that customers really don't care about getting the best business environment for Whole Foods. They want better choices and better food for themselves. Here's Mackey's argument:
Since the FTC never actually compared prices between Wild Oats and Whole Foods, how can they in good conscience claim that this merger will mean higher prices for consumers? They didn't conduct adequate research prior to making this claim! In fact, the exact opposite is true. Why? Because after the merger is complete, the acquired Wild Oats stores will be brought into Whole Foods system and their overall prices will be lowered. Consumers will be receiving lower prices, not higher prices after this merger is completed.
Oh, someone get me some aspirin. The biggest "natural food" chain buys the second biggest and, of course, prices won't go higher? Wait, wait - maybe I can go buy a bridge at the local Whole Foods. Let me get my piles of small unmarked bills first.

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China Not the Only Source of Problem Food Shipments

As the New York Times reports, China is far from being the single source of contaminated food, which includes: If this has been so prevelant - and apparently making China sometimes look like a piker, why is the media just getting around to reporting this now?

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Thursday, July 12, 2007

 

Adding Zip to Corned Beef

If you've ever made a packaged corned beef and have the experience of the real deli variety, you may have noticed that the home version is decidedly blander. Not only is there the difference in curing, but in the cooking. The packages say to drop the meat into water and simmer for hours. But adding some pickling spice to the water can enormously improve the flavor without your taking on brining the meat yourself. Last night I used some corned beef spice that my wife had picked up from Pensy's - somewhere around 2 teaspoons to a tablespoon. (That's significantly less than the 3 to 5 tablespoons per 5 pounds of meat that they suggest for actually marinating.) I think it's adding that little extra edge that the commercial producers leave out because a) many people like blander food, and b) it's cheaper for them.

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Wednesday, July 11, 2007

 

Traditional Approach to Pound Cake from Southern Cakes Book

A review copy of Southern Cakes: Sweet and Irresistible Recipes for Everyday Celebrations by Nancie McDermott arrived. Although I haven't had a chance to test the recipes, there's a great tip on pound cakes. The traditional recipe is a pound of sugar, a pound of flour, a pound of eggs, and a pound of butter. But the question I always had was how do you get a pound of eggs? Crack five or six or seven (depending on the size), and you might get more or less a pound, but not on the money.

Here's the flash of the obvious - the important thing is equal proportions. So you weight the eggs first, and then you weigh out equal measures of everything else! Then you cream the sugar and butter, beat in the eggs, and mix in the flour. Bake in a floured and greased pan at 350 until a skewer put into the center comes out clean.

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Tuesday, July 10, 2007

 

Two Notes of Obsession

Derrick Schneider writes the blog An Obsession with Food and he had two back-to-back entries I particularly liked.

One was about some promotion Hellman's had going with Yahoo called The Search for Real Food. He asks the question:
I don't have a problem with Hellmann's as a food product—none apart from a general stance against flavorless, chemical-laden industrial foods, anyway—but is there any food less real than the preservative-laden spread?
My answer? Yes - the fat-free version.

The other entry was a new search tool that food science expert Harold McGee has been working on with Google. It's essentially an index to McGee's On Food & Cooking.

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Monday, July 09, 2007

 

Strange News from the Food Front (7/9/07)

A weekly round-up of food and drink oddities:

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Friday, July 06, 2007

 

Recipe: Frozen Vanilla Coffee

After having frozen coffee drinks from Dunkin Donuts, Starbucks, and a local place called Shelburne Coffee Roasters, I decided to try my hand. Here are the results: Put all the ingredients into a blender and blend until smooth.

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Thursday, July 05, 2007

 

Book Review: The Spice and Herb Bible, Second Edition

What a marvelous book Ian Hemphill has created. If you have any interest in spices - which is to say, if you have any interest in cooking, this is a must. There are some recipes by his wife, Kate Hemphill, but this is primarily a practical reference from a second-generation spice merchant and obvious expert. The volume starts with interesting history that applies a pragmatic eye. For example, he dismisses the notion that people used spices in the dark ages to mask tainted foods because anyone who could have afforded the then-astronomical prices of the spices would likely have had money for something fresh. Instead, he attributes the growth of spices to improve bland food and, interestingly, to help moderate the strong gamy taste of many meats and poultry at the time, which might explain the concept of covering over a taste or aroma.

Of course there are sections on growing and using spices, and I found interesting the section on the spices and herbs that specific cuisines use. An approach I hadn't seen before is using relational weights - for example, in Indonesian cooking if you used cloves, turmeric, and coriander seed, they would likely be in a ration of 1 to 5 to 8. My first impression was that there were supposed to be proportions of spice blends, but that didn't make sense when you had, say, 15 different ingredients and you know that the cuisine in question doesn't use all of them every time. And there are recipes for specific spice blends at the end of the book. No, this chapter was to give you a feel for how the given cuisine uses and combines spices - very good to know.

What really grabbed me, though, were the entries for individual spices and herbs. Each includes the following: origin and history, processing, buying and storage, use, other names for the item, names in other languages, suggested quantities for a given type of dish, and what other spices and herbs that work well with it.

You do need to keep in mind that the book is from Australia, because some terminology might throw you. For example, there was a recipe for a savory biscuit. I was thinking the flaky type you bake, and then I suddenly remembered that in Australia and the UK, biscuit can mean a cookie or cracker. You will also find a few spices that aren't readily found in this part of the world. That said, at $24.95, this is a bargain.

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Wednesday, July 04, 2007

 

Hot Dog Hot Facts

As July is National Hot Dog Month (no, I can't make this stuff up) and today is the annual hot dog eating contest on Coney Island, I thought that a few choice bits on this snack: Happy Fourth, and good eating!

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Tuesday, July 03, 2007

 

Product Review: New Belgium Springboard Beer

I'm kicking myself for not having remembered to review New Belgium Brewing's spring beer during the season, and it's probably off the shelves for the rest of the year at this point. But I'm mentioning it now because any regional brewer that can produce something this good bears watching - and addtiional tasting.

The company advertised Springboard in a way that usually puts me off - with the inclusion of Chinese herbs. By reflex I generally consider that a gimmick. But in this case, it's one that worked. The brewmaster added schisandra, gogi berries, and wormwood in addition to oats. The result was a full, rich fruity flavor with a hint of bitterness in the aftertaste, but one that was pleasant. I had an impulse while tasting and took a bite of some reheated spaghetti and my quick tomato sauce, and the combination was dynamite, so I suspect this would work with many acidic foods.

Now I just have to find some of the comapny's Skinny Dip summer offering.

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Monday, July 02, 2007

 

Strange News from the Food Front (7/2/07)

A weekly round-up of food and drink oddities:

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