Flash in the Pan

I've been using a Starbucks Barista Espresso Maker (actually made by another company) for years, and while it needs some minor repairs, it's been dependable. So when I test an espresso machine, there's a pretty high bar: must work well, offer enough manual control to get the results I like, and be dependable. Cuisinart sent a Programmable Espresso Maker EM-200 for me to examine, and it has a lot going for it and, while not perfect, it has me wondering which machine I'd rather have on the counter. (Currently it's both, but my wife won't put up with that for long.)

On the plus side, it has a water tank that slides into position at the rear of the machine and doesn't require you to move all sorts of things out of the way to get at it. That may not sound important until you find yourself out of water in the middle of brewing espresso or steaming milk. The top of the plastic tank lifts up and out of the way, making it easy to pour more water in. However, I prefer to take the opportunity to rinse a tank out, as they can get a bit slimy when not regularly washed and rinsed.

Another strong point is both programmed settings for single and double shots, a manual button (if you prefer to time extraction rather than waiting for a specific amount of water to run through), and a button to let you change the programmed settings to what you like. The heated machine top for warming cups is nice, though on a cold morning, I hold my fingers there to thaw.

You get three holders for the basket: one for pod-packaged coffees, one for single shots, and a larger one for doubles. I didn't try pods, as I had none on hand. The double container felt a bit thin, and the basket lighter than I'm used to. The maker comes with two pins set into holders so you can unplug a blocked hole, a smart addition that more manufacturers should add.

Now for the slight drawbacks. The steaming wand seems to emit less steam than I'm used to, so getting milk to the right texture and temperature takes longer. The included milk pitcher is small, and the wand doesn't pull out far enough to make it easy to get a larger pitcher into place (though I've gotten the hang of it). The wand also has some sleeve over it, that turns the tip into a broad space that forces you to plunge it into the milk, making the bubbles too large. However, that sleeve actually slips off (as I accidentally learned while cleaning after a use), leaving you with more of a nozzle that lets you get the necessary angle for proper steamed milk.

The machine is also pretty noisy. Even when you're done brewing or steaming, the machine suddenly starts erupting steam through the base where you place the espresso pitcher to catch the liquid. It doesn't do any harm, but it's a bit distracting the first few times it happens. It would be nice if the maker also had a storage spot to keep the paraphernalia that comes with it. One other thing - be careful about putting a bit too much coffee into the basket, as it can get blocked up, building up pressure and not shooting out water. And opening the basket can turn into a mildly explosive and majorly messy experience.

On the whole, though, it's a decent machine and has more versatility than one of the fully-automatic variety that forces you to make do with whatever some engineer decided was the "proper" amount of water. At a suggested retail of $399, it is on the pricier side, but my experience with the durability of Cuisinart products has been good, so I doubt it's money you'd be throwing away. Plus, think of all the money you could save not heading to the local expensive espresso drink chain.

Labels: Cuisinart, espresso, maker